Create cutwork by cutting holes with scissors
I seriously took up the issue of creating cutwork on an online embroidery digitizing. I decided once and for all to work out the technique of creating a program for myself and to deal with the technological process of manual cutting in order to remove this question for myself forever.
I have come across this type of embroidery quite often
before. I even developed designs once, drawing them in CorelDraw. I'm not an
artist though. Like most designers who draw for embroidery, I never thought
before how to make a drawing so high quality that it could then be embroidered.
To take into account all the nuances (what can be done and what is not
recommended), it is necessary to understand well the creation and technology of
creating embroidery. Hmmm ... And therefore, there were some complaints from
the embroiderers about the created pattern. Indeed, for the most part, the
final appearance of the product depends on the idea.
In my grandmother's bins, I found a curtain with cutwork, also
embroidered in a free-moving technique. This sample of factory production is
40-50 years old.
These curtains have already been washed-peristyranny, and the
embroidery has not yet sprinkled or frayed! And about this sample, I also want
to note that everything is very delicate embroidered. The same cannot be said
about designs made for computerized machine embroidery.
It may be, of course, that there is no particular beauty in
the subtlety of the outline contours, but its amazing feature is that nothing
spills out and does not fly off. Such products do not have an excessive
thickness, the embroidery is very soft and the appearance is more delicate.
Having looked at all this once again, I decided to create my
own program and achieve at least the most subtle brides.
I looked at the 2nd version of the picture.
·
Sachet
valve:
·
Stand-socket:
Based on the first picture, I created a program for a sachet
with a valve:
After the first 2 unsuccessful stitches and subsequent
editing of the design, I came to the conclusion that the density of the design
can be reduced at least to 0.7-0.8 mm, and the number of simple lines under the
braids should be reduced to 2. And put the bridges themselves in a very rare
zigzag in 2 opposite aisles.
Particular attention should be paid to the first part of the
design when the first parallel frame stitches with a very short stitch length
and a small zigzag stitch are placed over them. This is the basis of embroidery
digitizing services. There, everything should be intertwined with each
other so that later the braces holding on to this skeleton do not fall out and
the satin bordering the holes do not fall off. It is necessary to plan out the
design so as to reduce the number of trimmings to the maximum.
And even more, attention should be paid to the choice of
fabric. My first fabric turned out to be so rotten from old ages that it
crawled in my hands when I began to fiddle with it after embroidery:
As a result, I, of course, embroidered this design on a piece
of linen and then sewed a sachet out of it. I posted a photo of her in a post
about recommendations for creating cutwork:
I will tell you more about the embroidery of the second
design in more detail, so I got it much better than the first one. Below is a preview
of the finished design:
I already planned to embroider this embroidery not with
viscose or polyester, but with cotton (weighing about 30-35). In my opinion,
shiny embroidery threads are not suitable for cutwork, as their luster gives
the impression of cheap Chinese products.
The first thing I did was hoop the Gunold Termogas
tremor-breakable stabilizer along with a piece of flax into the hoop.
Then I started the car and I first sewed a double line around
the perimeter of the whole drawing:
Right away, it was sewn up with a small zigzag along the entire perimeter of the drawing:
Next, I took the hoop out of the machine as it was time to
cut the holes. Cutting the holes in this design took me as long as the
embroidery itself and was absolutely no fun. That is still an occupation, not
for the faint of heart! No matter how hard I tried, I still cut the stabilizer
in several places:
·
Then
we insert the hoop into the machine and embroider everything else in one go:
·
This
is the wrong side. It turned out pretty clean:
·
Next,
we cut off our outlet around the perimeter.
·
The
only thing left to do is to remove the stabilizer. We put the rosette between 2
layers of paper:
·
And
we put on all this a very hot iron without steam:
·
We
are waiting (about 2 songs of Tequilajazzz) until the thermos darkens. From the
inside out, I got this:
·
We
crumple and fiddle with the embroidery so that the entire stabilizer is
sprinkled. And at the same time we check the embroidered for strength and
abrasion resistance:
The appearance is the most ordinary, the breeches are not as
subtle as we would like. But not fat monsters from other designs either. I
believe that if you embroider this design with regular 40-gauge threads, the
brides will be much thinner. I am very glad that nothing slips and does not
fall apart.
Why did I choose thermos as a stabilizer and not a
water-soluble film? Yes, because it is easier to work with it, and you will be
tortured to wash out the film later. The only thing I liked when embroidering
on the film is that it is almost impossible to pry it off with scissors when you
cut out the holes, which cannot be said about the heat-breakable stabilizer.
I got all 2 trims for the whole design: the first to stop for
cutting holes, and the second to trim at the end of the design. I had to break
my head over this. And also over the fact that to realize the connection of all
parts of the embroidery with frames, so that later it does not fall apart. My
only mistake, which I did not take into account, was the processing of the
embroidery edge. There is not enough, in my opinion, just sat in on the edge.
We also need duplicating processing along the perimeter, as for the scallop.
Well, next time I will.
Now I understand that the best machine embroidery programmers
could be experienced professionals in free-motion embroidery. They also try to
do everything without trimming, and they plan the passage of stitches in the
course of embroidery.
Well, in general, for myself, I realized that there are no
sacred secrets in creating such a design. A program for such cutwork is made in
absolutely any editor. The same laws apply here as when programming the rest of
the embroidery. You just need to turn on the brain.
For more details:
https://gurgaonfemales.com/general/toilet-paper-souvenir-29-04-2021
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